Our stop for night was on the island of Amantani. Amantani has opened its doors to outsiders who are willing to live for a few days as the Aymará-speaking islanders do --and that means sleeping on beds made of long hard reeds and eating potatoes for every meal. There is no running water or electricity and nighttime temperatures drop to freezing even in the summer. But those happy to rough it catch a glimpse of an Andean agricultural community that has maintained the same traditions for centuries. Some Amantaní residents live and die without ever leaving the island.