Arequipa's grand Plaza de Armas, an elegant and symmetrical square of gardens and a central fountain lined by arcaded buildings on three sides, is the focus of urban life. It is one of the loveliest main squares in Peru, though its profile suffered considerable damage when the great earthquake of 2001 felled one of the cathedral's two towers and whittled the other to a delicate pedestal. The Plaza reminded us of Antigua, Guatemala, where we were exactly a year ago. Only here it felt quite a bit more clean and safe.