At 8:30 we headed out for supper. We'd decided to go to a place we happened upon during our morning walk. It was a small wine bar named Terruños where we'd seen some cool t-shirts and the woman had invited us to come back tonight for some trout. When we arrived there were a group of guys standing around in the doorway. None of them approached us or welcomed us to sit down at one of the tables on the sidewalk. But we hung around, and finally one guy comes up and asks if we're there for some wine. We asked about the supper which was posted on their sandwich board: salmon, trout, ceviche, etc. Yes, of course. We asked to see a menu – he said yes we have a menu but we had to come inside. No menu, but come and select one of our boutique wines. How much is a meal? Oh, 40 to 70 pesos. Why the range? How much for the trout dinner. He checks with his buddies. 40 pesos. How much for the wine? Back inside we look at his shelf of bottles. He's sweating like crazy, it's quite warm inside, he apologizes and says he's really nervous. Sue is a little suspicious about this; Rudy thinks we should just sit down and try it. The gang of guys is hanging around and watching our every move. We sit down at one of the tables on the fresh gravel next to the sidewalk. We order our food. Sue is picking the wine and one of the guys from the kitchen brings a basket of bread and a dish of salsa; 'it's courtesy'. Our waiter now confesses that we are the very first customers. I wonder does he mean tonight? No, ever. Oh. That explains something. He is very nervous. Two of the guys emerge from the kitchen and take off in a car. Sue thinks they're going to buy groceries. Our waiter brings us a cup of ice cubes for our white wine. Sue tries to stick the bottle into the cup. Nope. The cubes are to put into the wine. You should drink this wine at 18 degrees. No, that's okay. Soon we get 2 plates with a small trout fish, head and all, lying next to potatoes for Rudy and squash for Sue. Tastes okay. No other guests here. No other restaurants near here. The remaining gang members watch our every move. One of them sits down at another table after a while and drinks his water and talks on his phone. Our waiter has now perched himself on a chair at the door and is glancing nervously at me every time I look up. He quickly looks down and texts like mad on his phone. The two grocery shoppers return carrying in several bags of supplies. I ask for salt and pepper. Big problem. Eventually I am served 2 small dishes containing salt and pepper, and a teaspoon in each dish. We finish our supper. We work at that bottle of wine. Waiter sits and watches. Does not remove our plates. Avoids us for the next half hour. In the meantime a German couple shows up and plops themselves down at the next table. Ho, ho, more customers. Well, ignoring all the passersby hasn't brought in anyone. They are invited into the shop to select a wine. They come out with a red. Waiter awkwardly tries to open the bottle but hey, this is only his second bottle. Finally, a buddy, one of the grocery shoppers, jumps in and helps him open the bottle. Pours a sample into a glass. Swirls it. Tips the glass upside down. He orders the waiter to go get some ice. Then go get another glass. Then go get another glass. He swirls the glass in the ice, then pours a little more wine into it. German woman is asked to taste the wine. She holds the glass to her nose. Grocery-shopper man waggles his finger in her face: no, no, no. He motions that all the fumes from passing cars, from garbage bins next to our tables, from the trees lining the street, all this will interfere with the bouquet. He pours a bit of wine into another glass. He will demonstrate. Makes a big show and sticks his nose completely into the glass. THAT's how you taste the wine. He drinks a bit. Breathes deeply. By now German man and woman are quite embarrassed about all the attention. They look helplessly at us. We are watching. At least this guy seems to know SOMETHING about something. Finally, we've sat there long enough. We ask for the bill. Waiter goes in for a while. Finally comes to our table. Takes a big breath. 'Here comes the bad part.' What? He hands us a slip of paper and begins to explain his scribbling. So much for the fish. Here's the wine. Ten pesos for 'scorkage'. The grand total was $115 pesos. Plus tip. I pulled out my Mastercard. His eyes grew wide. Oh boy. He'll have to go in and check about this. Sue and I pool our cash and come up with enough to pay him. Whew! Okay, you like? Yes, good luck. I wonder if this place will be in business tomorrow. I wish him 'Bueno suerte' as I leave.