October 2-4, 2001 – Aboard the Trans Siberian Railway

It is also possible for those travelling on to get out at each stop to stretch their legs or go in search of provisions. There would often be a kiosk selling bread, or a few market stalls, but it is usually more rewarding to head for the peasant women who bring freshly cooked vegetables to the platform.  

At the end of each carriage there is a samovar where, since the days of deferential tea-serving waiters are no more, you have to go, cup or teapot in hand, for your hot water. Opposite this contraption is the lair of the carriage guard; a person with whom it is worth accomodating oneself. One of our guards was strikingly beautiful, tall and blonde, and while she declined to have me take a photo of her, Trisna managed to take this one from the carriage entrance at one of our stops (that's the guard just to the left of the light pole). The guard would change uniforms depending on her task -- this ‘official’ uniform at stops, and a ‘maids’ uniform when she was vacuuming the hallway in the carriage.